No guts, no glory. This is the best way to describe Els Vanbiervliet’s entrepreneurial spirit. At Belle de Jour, she cooks pure and honest dishes bursting with local produce, far off the beaten track. High time to turn the tables. Femke Vandevelde, journalist at De Morgen, puts five questions to this Ostendaise, born and bred.
‘In my kitchen, flavour enhancers are out of the question: I try to go back to the origin of a product as much as possible’
Why do you do what you do?
Ever since my very first student job, I have been working (part-time) in the hospitality industry even though I actually graduated with a master’s degree in fine arts. When I was facing a tipping point at 40, the idea of spending my whole life in the kitchen suddenly became very appealing. My eye then fell on a charming property at the back of De Grote Post and, after a thorough redecoration, I installed a kitchen there too. Meanwhile, Belle de Jour has existed since 2013 and I am as happy as ever. I myself have had no cooking training: all my dishes arise from my gut feeling. Maybe I learned to cook by having children. I think it’s so important to teach them to be open to new tastes and fresh insights. In hindsight, I think I had quite a lot of guts to set up such a business on my own, though somewhere I knew I would succeed. I love challenges and feeling like I can sink my teeth into something (smiles).
What is your signature dish?
My Tagliata di Manzo, besides being my signature dish, is also one of the favourites among my guests. With the tagliata, they usually make their entry into Belle de Jour. Besides organic chateaubriand from the Mordan butcher around the corner, I use vegetables, herbs and flowers from an organic picking garden for this. On a second visit, they usually dare to opt for a more adventurous dish. You can’t imagine how satisfying it is to see your first-time guests still walk in here with a smile.
Tell us your culinary motto?
Stay true to yourself. Be yourself as much as possible in everything you undertake and then try to execute what you do to the best of your ability. Then I am not just talking about the food you serve and your décor, but also about how you interact with your guests. Try to think conceptually about what you want to say and how you can differentiate yourself with this. Of course, it’s the most natural thing in the world for your concept to evolve over time, but in my case it’s mainly about staying as close to the essence of the product as possible and purifying preparations as much as possible. In my kitchen, flavour enhancers are out of the question; I try to go back to the origin of a product as much as possible.
What local product should everyone have tasted and why?
Fresh fish from our North Sea, and especially the forgotten species such as red gurnard, pretty maiden or weever. Our regular fish supplier, Joeri Verbiest, delivers twice a day. Grey shrimps, for instance, are only on my chalkboard if they are day fresh. If there are shrimps left over after the evening shift – which rarely happens these days – I dare to eat them myself; without salt or pepper, just pure. You can’t taste that quality of prawns anywhere else, I would stake my hand on it.
Where in Ostend do you go to relax after your service?
My favourite spot is Mu.ZEE for the beautiful art, but if I really want to get some fresh air, I take the ferry to Oosteroever. A good walk and the wind, that’s all I need.
Nice to know: same concept, new location
Since spring 2019, you will find this restaurant in a new location. Here, the kitchen is the central place where everyone can sit – similar in atmosphere to Kobe Desramaults’ Chambre Séparée. While you, the chef, prepare the dish, your guest sits opposite you. And afterwards you can also “give” the dish. I think that’s a very nice ritual. Our culinary philosophy has remained the same: working locally as much as possible, with organic and natural products, including in the wine list. We also serve a lot of healthy side dishes according to the season. A few rooms are rented out above the business.
Belle de Jour
Madridstraat 9
8400 Oostende
0479 36 09 05
Published in visitoostende.be